Welcome to the ASICS Institute of Sport Science (ISS) in Kobe. This isn’t your typical lab; it’s a secured R&D bunker dedicated to “human-centric science.” Their objective is simple: to reverse-engineer human movement to create technology that unlocks peak athletic performance, and how that all translates into ASICS SportStyle where the data is applied to lifestyle footwear for everyday wear — Hypebeast was amongst the first group of journalists to get an insider look at what goes on behind the scenes.
Established in 1985 and fully operational in its current Nishi Ward location by 1990, the ISS serves as the definitive center for all ASICS innovation. The Institute is a self-contained research complex, unique in its ability to handle all phases of the R&D cycle in-house. This includes everything from the initial analysis of raw materials to final product testing.
Inside, a Biomechanics Lab lies at the heart of its operation. ASICS agents use sophisticated motion analysis systems to quantify an athlete’s every action: stride, cadence, stability. Here, athletes are fitted with dozens of motion-capture markers while high-speed cameras and force plates record their every movement, generating terabytes of data that are immediately processed. Then, the data is used to design materials and structures from the ground up, with the explicit goal of improving performance and mitigating failure (injury). The facility is equipped with a vast array of sophisticated instruments designed to quantify human performance under extreme duress. And to think all this had evolved from an octopus salad.
Kihachiro Onitsuka, the founder of the company that would eventually become ASICS, found unexpected inspiration for his first basketball shoe in 1951. While eating a dish of vinegared octopus salad, he noticed a piece stuck firmly to his bowl, prompting an epiphany about creating superior grip.
The resulting shoe featured a sole with small depressions, designed to mimic the suction cups of an octopus tentacle. This innovative “Suction Cup Basketball Shoe” dramatically improved a player’s starting, stopping, and turning performance on the court, which was crucial for the fast-paced game. Although the initial prototype had too much stopping power, refinements led to a successful model. This early design, born from dinner inspiration, laid the groundwork for the company’s continuous commitment to athletic innovation.
The work conducted at the ISS is responsible for nearly all of ASICS’ most successful and performance-defining technologies that are patented breakthroughs resulting from decades of research. One of the most critical discoveries is the GEL cushioning system — which is especially used in the ASICS SportStyle Division for everyday application. First integrated into ASICS footwear in 1986, the GEL material is continuously refined at the ISS. Its function is to absorb the massive vertical impact forces generated during running and disperse them horizontally, drastically reducing the shock transmitted to the athlete’s joints and soft tissues.
Beyond the biomechanics, the ISS utilizes specialized environmental testing chambers. The Weather Simulator can precisely control temperature and humidity, allowing testing under the most demanding competitive conditions, from the blistering heat of a summer marathon to the cold, damp environment of a cross-country race.
There is also simulation with the use of robotics that tests a shoe’s durability. Generally referred to as an outsole durability evaluation robot, a robot arm equipped with a shoe simulates the precise and repetitive impact of a human running gait on said shoe. This mimics a variation of speeds, weight (or pressure), and running surfaces, to produce data from hundreds of miles in a fraction of the time that would otherwise take human runners two to three months — a key part of the human-centric design process, ensuring that shoes meet high standards for performance and longevity through rigorous scientific analysis.
Now you may be thinking, “I’m not an athlete, how would this benefit me?” That’s where ASICS SportStyle comes in, a division set up to focus on shoes that blend ASICS’s heritage performance designs and technology (especially said GEL cushioning system) with modern, lifestyle aesthetics, adapted for daily, fashion-forward wear.
To date, the covert team at ASICS SportStyle has been responsible for many of today’s mainstay sneakers that are constantly in-demand and in-collab, from the GEL-KAYANO series (notably the 14 and 20, the former which has seen collaborations with JJJJound and Kith, and the latter with Cecilie Bahnsen); to the 2023 silhouette that is the GEL-NYC which launched as a collaborative model with AWAKE NY and has been a fan favorite since; to the off-planet and more experimental models such as the GEL-KIRIL and GEL-STYRAX that have been adopted by Kiko Kostadinov in his ASICS NOVALIS line — all have made their mark on sneaker culture.
To simply put, ASICS SportStyle has made comfort, cool.
Speaking on-site with the ASICS SportStyle team about their approach to collaborations and its meaning, Alvaro Moreno de la Cruz, Global Head of Marketing, SportStyle, reflects, “We’ve always believed in the power of partnerships, but now more than ever, we are thoughtful in how we approach collaborations and who we partner with. Collaborations at ASICS are not about following trends but about finding like-minded creative forces who understand our values and share our vision for bringing unique, high-quality products to life. The magic happens when we grow together through the creative process — it’s truly a win-win where both partners push each other to new heights.”
Adding to this, Ryan Cua, Global Head of Collaborations, comments on their valued and inspired long term partner, “Kiko Kostadinov has helped redefine what a footwear collaboration can be, and his influence has become an integral part of the DNA of ASICS SportStyle. Looking back at his past projects, many have aged exceptionally well and helped shape the future of not only our brand, but the footwear industry more broadly. Styles like the GEL-KIRIL series and GEL-QUANTUM LEVITRACK stand as examples of products that pushed boundaries and continue to feel relevant over time. We’re excited about what’s ahead including upcoming tabi releases, ASICS NOVALIS, OTTO958, and more.”
At last, the ISS is more than just a testing ground; it’s where the link between science and competitive sport is forged. Every new piece of gear is a classified weapon in the hands of elite athletes, and every ounce of new data is used to better the everyday, for everyone.
For the ASICS agents, the work here is relentless, the insights are proprietary, and the goal is always to deliver an unbeatable edge. Their mission is singular should they choose to accept: the never-ending pursuit of unlocking peak athletic potential that embodies the company’s founding philosophy: Anima Sana In Corpore Sano (ASICS) — A Sound Mind in a Sound Body.
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